The Path Less Traveled
Old Rail Line Is A Gem Of A Trail
Hikers Rewarded WIth Spectacular Views
By PETER MARTEKA
Courant Staff Writer
The Hartford Courant
October 31, 2002
ALONG THE AIR LINE NORTH -- The coal-eating iron horses that once traveled the Air Line rail road are gone, but the name given the route in the 19th century endures.
The northern section of what is known as the Air Line State Park Trail, a favorite of horseback riders, cross-country skiers and hikers, officially begins off a short section of pavement that leads from the intersection of Tuckie Road and Route 66 in Windham. The Air Line rail bed begins about a quarter-mile along the connector to the northeast of Route 66. It's easy to see where the old bed begins because it runs straight off into the horizon.
The Air Line was once part of the Boston & New York Railroad Co. that carried passengers and freight between the two cities. The railroad received its name because it was the straightest route "as the crow flies" or as noted on a straight line on a drafting table in the mid-1800s. The section from Willimantic to Boston was completed in 1872 and linked a section running from Middletown through towns such as Portland, East Hampton, Hebron and Lebanon.
While a 22.95-mile section has been completed from East Hampton to Hebron, the northern section of the trail extends about 26 miles from Windham to just south of Putnam. The trail begins again just southwest of Thompson and continues into Rhode Island where it becomes the Southern New England Trunkline Trail through the Ocean State.
With frost still on the fallen leaves and blades of grass, I boarded the rail trail with Windham Recreation Director Mark Paquette Monday destined for North Windham and the invisible dotted line separating the town and Chaplin. This section of trail runs northeast for about 3.2 miles bending only once as one gets closer to North Windham.
Much of the trail is still relatively unimproved since members of the National Guard came through in the mid-1990s and removed the rails and ties and graded the surface. Paquette said he hopes to find funding to have crews put down a layer of stone dust that would create a more even and level surface. Much of the trail is in good shape, but there are areas where large stones and gravel can make walking and mountain biking a little difficult.
One of the highlights of the trip is a commanding view of what is known as the "Windham Atlantic White Cedar Bog." Owned by Joshua's Tract Conservation and Historic Trust, the 67-acre parcel is actually a swamp filled with peatland and old white cedars along with a mix of other hardwoods and pine trees. The trust works to preserve land throughout northeastern Connecticut.
"This is really a hidden gem out here," Paquette said of the rail trail. "It's a great way to exercise and enjoy the outdoors and the best thing is there is no fee or sign-up sheets to fill out."
Paquette said he usually takes a mountain bike while traveling on rail trails in order to cover more territory. Some areas of the trail are bounded by huge dropoffs with commanding views of the surrounding hillsides.
"It's amazing how much cut and filling they had to do to make this railroad," Paquette said. "People would never know there is this quiet, peaceful environment so close to where they live. It's a pretty amazing place."
As we approach North Windham, the trail starts its "S" bend through Chaplin. A birch tree bending over the trail provides a good turnaround spot. The North Windham train station once stood at this location (as the nearby Depot and Station roads can attest) before the train headed into Willimantic's Chestnut Hill or Clark's Corner in Hampton.
On another day, I plan to continue my hike into Chaplin and beyond. Some people walk the length of the Appalachian Trail or climb to the top of Mount Everest. My goal is to walk the entire length of the Air Line from Middletown to Thompson straight as the crow flies.
The Air Line North trail in Windham can be accessed from the beginning of Tuckie Road and at the North Windham School off Route 203. Trail maps are available at the Windham Recreation office located at 979 Main Street in Willimantic.
Questions or column suggestions are welcome. Peter Marteka may be reached by phone at 860-647-5362, by mail at The Courant, 200 Adams Street, Manchester, CT 06040, by e-mail at marteka@courant.com
Copyright 2001, Hartford Courant
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Page Last Updated: April 30, 2002