x&Mac217;>" * e in the ‘Beer Garden’, this cost A$4.00 (not really that thirsty!!) Watched TV until about 11.30, then lights out.
Woke at 8am, shower, shave, etc. then down to brekky, not bad (free), back to room, repack gear. Was going to head into city but taxi A$30 each way, not worth it, will head in on return journey if required. I am not stingy but that is ridiculous.
Spent the day resting in the room watching TV. Free lunch and tea was quite good. Some of the choices at tea a tad ‘hot’ but passable.
Headed to the airport at 8pm and departed at 9.15.
Arrived Dhaka 11.55pm, airport is bit gross but!!! Taxi to Pacific Hotel (A$17 – ripped off) was a dilapidated old car but the driver spoke good English, many trucks and bulk pollution, even at that time of night.
Hotel doesn’t look much like internet photos but it is clean, bed passable but no hot water. Got to bed about 2am.

Saturday 6th May 2000
Woke about 6.30am, got up, cigarette, turned on TV, looked out of the window (1/10 view) and proceeded to do nothing. What to do today?? Go for a walk, get my bearings, get lost, and buy some joggers and generally not much. Am writing this in the restaurant waiting for a coffee, asked for black, think they use condensed milk here? Sugar looks a bit secondhand but what the hell, this is Bangladesh!! Sign on the window “Welcome to Pacific Restaurant we trust in taste”, wonder what that means?, makes the imagination run wild. Looking out the window there are many people wondering aimlessly, pedal cabs, heat and humidity. Many children with bags probably collecting saleable rubbish to survive? People going to work, some even wearing ties! Coffee is ok (Nescafe I think), was asked the standard questions – “which country are you from, your name, etc”. To date seems a mix of Colombo/Phnom Penh but sway more to PP.
Headed off at 9am for a walk, did well, 3 hours and didn’t get lost once. Lot of staring but only accosted for money a few times. The pollution and odours are a bit off but I don’t really care. Still can’t get used to the Asian way of people standing doing nothing or aimlessly walking (like me??). Pedal rickshaws by the million, most empty but they still pedal. Organised chaos is the norm. Had half hour break and out to Banga Bazaar to purchase some gear. Went for a ride by pedal rickshaw, wanted to go to Banga Bazaar, couldn’t communicate where I wanted to go, to rickshaws near Hotel, so started walking where I thought it was, eventually spoke to a Policeman but don’t think he could read my writing (neither can I sometimes!) or my accent, so decided to head to the river but couldn’t see anything as there was a large wall. Went through the ‘real’ working area, everything done by hand, no machines – bloody hard work and the loads they push on bicycle type trolleys is unbelievable. On the way back he went via the University and stopped a couple of students, they spoke good English and told him the name of the Bazaar I was looking for. Guess where it was?? Right on, a few metres from where I had hired him!! Purchased Jeans ($13), T Shirt ($7) and joggers ($12), with a bit of barter and humour, especially the shoes, had huge problems getting the correct size (Size 9 is big here) but after numerous attempts found 1 pair. Out for about 4 hours.
Went for another walk for about an hour just before tea and being such a great navigator, even at night, didn’t get lost.
Just finished tea, rice with vegetables and side salad ($2), filled me right up, together with 2 cokes and coffee.
Have organised a rickshaw driver to take me on the grand tour of the new city at 10am tomorrow, so will go back to my room shortly, watch a bit of TV – there is evidently no nightlife in this city, not that I really want it!! Just tasted the coffee, bloody condensed milk – F__K!! Forgot to ask for black (dickhead)! Decided you may as well smoke living here, the pollution is sooooo bad; it would be like 40+ cigs per day. Bedtime @ 10.30, after walking for hours, hot, wet and stuffed.

Sunday 7th May
Woke about 6.30am again, watched some TV, ha a coke and shower @ 7.30 – power went off couple of times but not for long. Headed off by rickshaw about 10am for the ‘Grand Tour’ – 7 hours ‘far out’. Covered the dock area and a laugh with the locals using the video camera on one of the wharves, they thought it was huge seeing each other on the little screen. Around the dock area and every bump available, held tight a few times, shit it was close!! Went to the Zoo (1 * hour trip) – waste of bloody time, quite a few empty cages and underfed animals (similar to Saigon) – nearly asked them to put me in a cage, as all the locals stared at me as much as the ‘other animals’. Walked about for an hour soaking wet (38o+), went over the road to get a coke and the staring continues. At least my ‘driver’ speaks passable English, which makes it a bit more pleasant. Found out their ‘Sunday’ is Friday because it is a Muslim country. Children go to school 3hrs/day (morning or afternoon) 6 days per week. Being ex British colony, they drive on the left hand side of the road, some of the time anyway. By the end of the trip was soaking wet, had a flat ‘bum’, lost kg’s from bouncing and dying for a ‘p’, no public toilets in this country and be damned if I am going to ‘p’ in the street like the locals (would draw a crowd anyway – I don’t think so!!!). Watched the Grand Prix on TV tonight, guzzling on coke and biscuits. Found out there is hot water but you have to run it for 5+ minutes, will give it a try tonight. Washed my hair this morning but think it is back to brown with pollution – not really but it feels shit!! I am very tired; you would think I did the pedaling.
7 hours = 700 taka = A$23. Tomorrow am heading to the Tongi River and a boat trip (probably). Eating tea tonight – rice with chicken (no chicken) and salad. Ate what I thought was a bean but it was a green chili – fuck, hot, hot, spit out, hot, coke, cucumber, coke, cucumber, OK. Early to bed tonight @ 10.30.

Monday 8th May
Woke first about 6.15 but fell back to sleep and woke again about 8an – shower with hot water (very nice) and off in the tuk-tuk at 9am. Still feel a bit tired; the traffic jams and pollution are not helping. Booked a flight via Biman to Calcutta at 3pm tomorrow, still have to be 2 hours early for a 30 minute flight – far out!! Back to the trip to the Tongi – held my breath a few times. NB. Carolyn, if you think I drive fast, these things would give you an instant heart attack!! Arrived at the river within 1* hours, was disappointed a bit, don’t know what really expected but this is a small river (by the guide book it was great), it was peaceful, hired a boat for an hour and ‘paddled’ up the ‘creek’ – nothing marvelous. Walked back to the main road through a market and received many stares (as usual). Back on the road – my mood was not good and told the driver back to the Hotel but think we still did the ‘cooks tour’, as we went left and right, etc. – eventually arrived and then the money, asked for too much in my books, so gave him A$30 and walked off. Back in the room I fell asleep for a few hours and then watched TV until 6.30. Went out for a walk and located an electrical market that I must have walked past a dozen times. Quite a few audio/video CD’s but nothing of interest, there was one game that I thought of buying but when decided to go back and buy it, couldn’t find the stall and nearly got lost!
It is a very male society here, you hardly ever see a woman in a shop/stall selling goods, it is always men/youths – women are probably locked to the stove!!
Decided that Bangladesh doesn’t rate very well (Dhaka anyway), well behind Cambodia – if ever came back again would try the beach towns to the east, as have read they are OK.
Didn’t even finish my rice tonight, getting a bit boring – menu at this place is very bland and don’t want to try the curry, save that for India (guts!!). Probably go for another walk before turning in or won’t get to sleep tonight – may try and find the game CD – Good luck!!
What will India be like?? Think it will have to be better than here, expect Calcutta to be similar but may at least see a ‘white’ person – haven’t seen any here in 3 days. Am really looking forward to Chennai and meeting Steven and the boys.
Haven’t sent a postcard as 1. haven’t seen any and 2. if sent would take about 3 weeks to arrive.

Tuesday 9th May
Same start as yesterday, then went for a walk to find CD shop but no luck. It was very hot and after hour walking headed back to the hotel and air conditioning. Left hotel at noon and real taxi to the airport, even had air conditioning (mmmmmm).
Am now sitting in the departure lounge with 1*-hour wait for flight – Indian airlines flight just delayed due to bad weather in Calcutta (OH OH).
I shouldn’t have thought anything, my plane developed mechanical trouble and we ended up on another plane departing at 5.45pm (2 hours late), I was not a happy chappy. Should have known something would happen as the baggage scanner at the gateway was stuffed. Went through very slow customs/immigration then a taxi (old Morris called Ambassador here) to the Astoria Hotel to check it out – passable @ A$30 per night, better than Dhaka.
The street to the hotel was blocked off just up the road, as there was a ‘concert’. Chucked my stuff in the room and off for a walk – decided to get a haircut and together with head massage (not head job) it cost Rs35 (A$1.40), he did excellent job, so gave him Rs50. Stood and watched the concert for quite awhile, wasn’t bad and many watching. Bed @ 11pm.


Wednesday 10th May
Woke @ 6.15 and didn’t go back to sleep! Had toast for breakfast, as realized had very little to eat yesterday. Headed out for a look around and after about * hour decided should have camera, so headed back to the hotel. Off again with video in hand (fuck it’s hot/humid) towards Howrah Bridge a few km away. Stopped at a ghat on the way down and when started video, the inevitable happened and the crowd descended – they always laugh when you photograph a friend, never seen video at close range. Stopped a couple of times when crossing the bridge to take photo’s, then noticed a sign “no photography allowed” (bloody stupid!!) but this is India, so who cares? Had a couple of cokes and mineral water whilst resting over the other side of the river – by this time was soaked, including jeans – the humidity is gross. Headed back by a different route and was beginning to think I was lost but no, saw a landmark and eventually arrived at the hotel. Spent about 6 hours walking in total and my feet feel like it.
There was a taxi strike today, so at least traffic wasn’t quite so hectic. Had another shower, washed hair again (twice daily), changed, then ordered chicken chow mien for early tea – wasn’t bad for A$2 including 2 cokes! Back on the trail again and bought 3 books and then back to the hotel – took a new route and did get lost, asked a cop and he gave me first part of directions. Stopped for another drink and got further directions, then the rain pissed down – the shop guy gave me a seat behind the counter until it stopped, off again – was approached by woman with baby who said (in good English) ‘I don’t want money, buy milk for my baby’ bought tin of powdered milk and she was happy. Short stay in room then back out again. Forgot had washing done – socks/hanks/T shirts/shirt/pants all ironed and folded at a princely sum of A$3.
Then approached by 2 guys, late teens, one had deformed hand and ‘rooted’ knee from bus accident – shouted them a meal. Back to hotel, writing this it is now 11.30pm, time for bed – catch u tomorrow.

Thursday 11th May
Didn’t wake until 8am this morning, stayed to read the paper and found there is a general strike today – can things get any worse?? I think not. Anyway, walked around the area this morning, at least stuff all vehicles to dodge. Cricket was being played in all the streets, very ‘professional’ too, scoring and all. Back to the hotel to change again then on the streets, heading to the new bridge. After a few dead ends, found you can’t walk across it – ‘bugger’. Found a drink place along the Hooghly River and sat for an hour or so just ‘veging out’, back to the hotel to change again. Headed out for a meal and ran into one of the guys from yesterday who tagged along. Walked around and was approached by a small boy asking for money, already given him Rs10 earlier in the day but said would buy a meal. Couldn’t find any street vendors, so ended up in a small café in the tourist area – he looked awestruck! He didn’t eat much so ‘doggie bag’ for his mother, 2 brothers & 2 sisters to have later on. Met mother and 2 brothers gave her a few Rs – they live on the street – another sad case in a sad city.
While at tea was speaking to a Swiss lass who has been traveling/working around India for 6 months, she thought the boy (about 4 years old) was cute and it was good to give him a meal, made him drink a glass of milk too – told my ‘interpreter’ to tell him it would make him big and strong like me – he smiled and flexed his arm (muscle – I don’t think so). Back to the hotel at 9.30 and now watching TV – it is now 11.30m time for nigh, nighs.

Friday 12th May
Awake at bloody 6am. Sent Email to Bob Mc & Andrew J. Had my shoes cleaned by a boy (about 12) who is learning English at nights, did a great job and asked for Rs5 but gave him 20, noticed he was nearly out of black polish, so bought him some from a shoe shop (lousy A$0.80). Met up with my ‘guide’ and the young boy – went shopping and bought him T shirt, shorts and sandals, after he had a wash and put on the new clothes, he was so proud. We took a taxi to the Botanic Gardens – traffic was shit – Botanic Gardens?? Well trees and weeds anyway! Back to the city and drop old clothes with the boys mother (she looks very young for 5 children), changed some money and back to the hotel for lunch at 2.15. Realized I hade left my camera somewhere!! What a fu….g idiot!!! Rushed back to the moneychanger but no luck, may have put it down when with boys mother, will go back after lunch. It is stinking hot/humid again and I am soaked yet again. Am very tired today – getting old – will have a lay day tomorrow I think. Went back re camera but no go – insurance loss – must be going senile. Out again tonight, ran into * dozen ‘street kids’ aged 8-15, a couple speak very acceptable English, the asked for some Rs but I said only food, ended up with about 12 for dinner but it is only money. We have organised a game of cricket for tomorrow and will buy a few shirts, meals, etc - they always say “thank you uncle”. One who joined us is 17 (Michael), has been on the streets for so long, can’t even remember where he lived before, another left home at 10 as his father always beat him and his mother – the camaraderie between these ‘kids’ is unbelievable, they share everything. Another told me he is very sad because he can’t remember anyone ever loving him – it is just so sad – they are all great ‘kids’, it just breaks my heart, they are my adopted ‘family’ until I leave here. On the way to eat, another 4 children asked for money = another 4 meals.

Saturday 13th May
After toast and jam for brekky, met some of the ‘kids’ and headed to buy a cricket bat and ball for the big ‘test match’. By the time everything was organised it was about 11.30 and very hot standing in the sun. A lot of older guys (late teens) turned up and naturally took over and most of the young ones missed out – I was a bit annoyed but, for a change, kept my mouth shut. I had a couple of overs and took 2 wickets but didn’t get to bat as my team lost (limited overs game I guess?). After the game we went to the ‘lake’ for a swim. The first 10 feet from the edge was hot but after that was nice and cooling – hesitated a bit as this is also used for washing and toileting but ……. After that we headed off for a drink. Was approached by 2 young girls and boy for money but Michael (about 17, nice guy, good English) told them to go, I said would buy them some biscuits – the small boy 5-6 years old was blind in the left eye and was inform us that someone was using a slingshot and he was hit in the eye – another sad story. Michael opened the packets of biscuits, so they couldn’t resell them – smart kid. Shouted dinner and then said would buy them a shirt each – Michael bartered around and go down to Rs100, I then said they could choose between a shirt or the cash equivalent – naturally they opted for the cash – smart ‘kids’! Walked around for a bit and back to the hotel about 9.45. Ordered some chow mien, after 40 minutes, rang up room service and they said would be up very shortly, ate some biscuits I had and at 11.20 the food arrived but I sent it away – bed.

Sunday 14th May
Woke at 8am to the sound of rain – excellent – maybe a bit cooler out. Met the guys at 10am and said would buy them shirts, pants and sandals (they think I am stupid??) – Michael did the bartering while I stood off a bit – good prices on everything but quality?? Decided to buy a camera and ended up with a Canon – started to take photos of before/after shots of boys with new clothes but the bloody camera wouldn’t wind properly – ‘bugger’. We went to the movies and saw Titanic in Hindi language – must hire the video and see what they actually said – was good anyway. Headed off to dinner and ate bread type thing and veggies, only very light curry/chili. Then went for a ride in a taxi over the 2 bridges that span the Hooghly – 9 of us, what a squeeze! But good fun – driver and boys started singing on the way back – cool. Early night, now 10pm, going to exchange camera tomorrow, airline ticket? And go to an amusement park (Nicco Park) – sounds like a real hoot.

Monday 15th May
I went to change some money at the money changer went to the other day, when I walked in the man asked me if it was me who lost a camera, when I confirmed, he said they had found it – do you believe this!! After I left the other day, someone noticed a Bangladeshi take something off the desk and they followed him to his room and found the camera – I really don’t believe this, it wouldn’t happen at home. I thanked him very much and then headed to take the other camera back. The guy at the shop charged me about Rs300 for the deal but that didn’t really bother me.
Took 9 boys to Nicco Park, this is an amusement park a few km out of the main part of the city. It is quite good and some of the rides are free but others cost about Rs20/25 – naturally the better ones cost. We arrived about 10.30 and had a drink (hot/humid still), then headed to ride similar to Gee Whiz – I sat on the inside of one of the boys, bet he wished I hadn’t, with the force I was pushed against him and probably squashed him but he didn’t say anything (I would have!!), then headed to the Dodgem cars – the faces lit up and off we went, it was great. I think we/they went on everything at least once but the highlight to me was the waterslide – 2 rides – one straight run, the other curved track – excellent – the laughing and smiles were worth every rupee. Left about 7.30pm and headed back to town to eat. Night ended about 10pm – took heaps of photographs. Not a cheap day by any means but the happy faces showed that money is only for spending.

Tuesday 16th May
We eat at the same ‘restaurant’ most of the time and they have boys about 14 who do the cleaning, clearing, etc. – they work 12 hours a day, 6 days per week for a monthly salary of Rs 300 (A$12), room and board – is this slave labour or what!! A quieter day today, after breakfast, Indian style, headed across Howrah Bridge by taxi and then ferry (Rs2) back to the other side. Boys went for a swim in the river and I was very jealous, as had no bathers and while the river looks dirty, it looked very cooling, just sat and watched people doing their daily ablutions. Booked flight with Indian Airlines to Chennai, leaving at 10.50 tomorrow morning. It is a bit rough; it costs non-Indian an extra A$130 for the flight. Walked around a bit, nothing startling – photos were developed and the boys were happy to get a copy. Chinese meal for dinner (passable) and then off to the ice cream parlor. We got a few stares from the ‘middle/upper class’ mob but ‘screw them’, we enjoyed ourselves ‘pigging out’ on ice cream, etc. It was then about 10.30, time to head back to the hotel, on the way was asked couple of times – ‘you want massage, plenty of girls’ and ‘you want hash’ – I declined all offers.

Wednesday 17th May
Up at 6am, packed my bags, down to Classic Hotel (the usual) for breakfast – egg roll and cha (tea) – not too bad. Took some photos of the staff and will send them later (not like Vietnam), they all got into the act. Left some Rs for the ‘boys’ who work there, they were very happy – gave the money to the Manager, so hope the boys get it! Picked up bags and off to the airport. It’s still stinking hot/humid, especially with 8 in the taxi. Arrived at the airport and the boys were told to leave by an official of some sort, didn’t want to argue the matter, so didn’t get a chance to say goodbye to the boys. What a backward fu….g place. I then found out that the flight was delayed at least until 12.30, not impressed in the least. It is now 11.45 and delay is until 1pm.
Overall impression of Calcutta is one of squalor but locals take pride in what little they have, living conditions for many (the majority?) is very bad but they make the most with what they possess, they help each other, are very clean and tidy and very helpful to tourists. Most gutters/streets are swept daily and in the main, clean. Yes, there are beggars but what can you expect, at least they don’t hassle you to a frustrating extent! Even they have some pride. Many people live/sleep on the street – the traffic is chaotic but isn’t too bad for a city this size. Most inner streets are not wide and taxis/buses stop wherever they want. Traffic lights mean nothing, although there are police at some intersections who seem to direct traffic. They even have a few trams; think they were built early last century! Pollution is disgusting but basically the same as the rest of Asia, sometimes crossing the river it looks like fog has come in. Some of the odours are a tad rich, but overall not too bad. You have to watch where you are walking in ‘toilet’ areas. Would I come back again? Yes, but not at this time of the year and maybe get out of the city for a few days, go to Sunderbans, Diamond Harbor or similar.
Astoria Hotel @ A$30 (off season) per night is a bit overpriced – needs paint/repairs – if this place is only 3-4 years old, as per Lonely Planet guide, I would hate to see it in another 5 years!!!!
Arrived in Chennai about 5.15 and trip to Nilgiris Nest hotel via airport bus, it had rained shortly before arrival and a bit humid but not as bad as Calcutta (not yet anyway), traffic not as chaotic either. Hotel is very nice (A$36 per night), far superior to Calcutta/Dhaka. Went for a walk down to the Marina – many people eating and sitting around – nice breeze. Back to hotel for a nice meal, out for another short stroll and bed.

Thursday 18th May
Woke @ 7am, down for breakfast then headed to Share & Care. Steven (the Boss) was out but spoke with his wife and daughter. The address at Perambur was their house and the facilities are away from the area. Sponsored children live in a village about 60km from the city. Steven organises the whole place and getting them to be self-sufficient. One of the guys showed me around the area for about an hour, saw railway station, Roman Catholic Church, veg/fruit market and a school. Steven arrived around noon (bit hard to understand) and told me some of the history of the organization. They run polio clinics, school, assist the elderly, women’s program and sponsorships. They lost income from overseas when nuclear tests carried out by the Indian government and this has made it extremely difficult, but they will survive. We organised things to do – visit polio clinic, Katchur (Saturday/Sunday), elderly program, take children to one of the attractions – full program.
Will move out of hotel on Sunday and stay in spare (sparse) room at the house. Tomorrow going to polio clinic @ 3pm and then see where they live. Back to hotel at 3.30 by 3 wheeler, got him to drop me at the Marina, forgot it was sooo long and had to walk about
* hour before found bearings. Many swimming, bit rough in sea. Back to hotel, shower, change. Obtained some rupees from ATM, maximum allowed Rs4000 (A$140). Back to Marina for tea, had battered banana (didn’t taste like it!!), battered onion/potato/green pepper – not bad. Sat and watched the scene, had ice cream, headed back to hotel at 11pm, sat watching TV until 1am (dickhead) and off to sleep.

Friday 19th May
Happy 50th you old bastard!!
Woke at 8.15 – coffee and cigarettes for brekky. Looks very hot outside (unusual), another ‘wet clothes’ day. Must ring Henry’s brother regarding gifts, not much time to deliver! Bit of a walk in the morning and out to Share & Care about 2pm. The polio clinic was cancelled today, as the Doctor had to go into the countryside – went to meet some of the polio children in their homes – far out!! I call them prisons! Room 10’x10’ for living and up to 10 people residing, also a small room to cook. Started to team with rain, luckily we were in the 3 wheeler. One of the girls recently had an operation to straighten her leg but as no physiotherapy after (her parent(s) were slack), it was all a complete waste of time and they will have to start over – it is sooo sad. The parent(s) earn about Rs40 (A$1.60) per day by rolling 1000 (minimum) cruddy little cigarettes – this is evidently enough to feed the family! We visited 3 and then went to the Hostel for polio victims who are either orphans or their parents can’t cope with them, currently there are 8 teenage girls and a little orphan boy (physically ok) of about 5, he will be moving to Katchur orphanage in a few weeks. Back to the house for dinner!! and then to the hotel about 9pm. Not a very interesting way for one to spend one’s 50th birthday!!??

Saturday 20th May
Up late, walked to a video shop to pickup video ordered on India, not in so they will send to Hotel – walked to Marina, empty – back to hotel. 3 wheeler to Perambur (Share & Care) @ 1.30 to meet with Steven. Went on trip to Mahabalipuram to see rock sculptures. This sort of thing is not normally my forte but it was magnificent and very interesting. The carvings go back to 7th century and it is 2nd only to Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Each of these huge structures started as one rock, it would be interesting to know how long they took to carve, and the detail is brilliant. Watched craftsman working on huge carvings that take up to 2 years to make and they sell for about 5lakh (Rs500, 000 – A$20,000). It was also evident that there were at least 2 generations of the family working on the sculptures, good to see that the art will not die.
Steven and I sat on the beach for a time and talked about the background of the organisation. Started with backing of Lions with 3 malnourished, pregnant women, then added abandoned children and polio victims. They decided to move into country village but elders didn’t turn up but and old woman from a neighboring village did – people in Katchur were being treated like slaves, also no water available close to the village, no electricity, no roads, no school. Steven arranged to get the elders together and asked what they wanted – now some 6 years later they have roads, water (wells), school, health center, electricity and telephone. Steven and his wife don’t take any salary from the Society as they are both employed as social workers and have their own income; they also own property from their parents. Initially they used their own funds to get things running properly. Tomorrow we are heading to Katchur for a couple of days and then shouting 50 to MGM Dizzy World for the day, so the adventure really begins! I am really looking forward to this part of the trip and especially to meet the boys that I sponsor. Had a fantastic day, finished with a very nice meal at a restaurant (real one) at Mahabalipuram, for 5 of us it cost A$20 including dessert (I had a huge banana split and it was lip-smacking).

Sunday 21st May
Lazy morning – lunch consisted of toasted chicken sandwich, French fries, chocolate thick shake and coke – high living. Checked out of hotel at 2.15 and headed for Share & Care. Left 1 bag at the house and we hit the road at 4pm – arrived at Katchur about 5.30, after a very rough, sometime hair-raising drive. As school is out only about 15 children living at the center but they cater for 300+ during school time. Met the lady who runs the place, she is very nice, has been with the organisation for many years. Children started to turn up and we ended up with about 50, it was a great welcome. They all shook my hand and said ‘hello uncle’ and a couple said ‘thanks uncle’ (limited English and as nervous as me!). They actually teach English as part of the curriculum but Tamil is the priority, language of the State of Tamil Nadu. Met Eswarayha (boy I sponsor), he is 9 but looks about 7, very small, very nice boy, quiet evidently. The children sang a few songs that were really great. Steven, the boss lady and I sat there like kings (I hate that sort of thing but it is their way). Later went for a short walk with some of the children to a ‘shop’ for a drink and bought them some lollies. Had dinner about 9pm, didn’t eat with the children or the same food as the children, then to bed about 10. The room allocated is unbelievably hot – the fan just moves hot air, bed is very lumpy. Had a shower, bucket and dipper and went to bed wet but that didn’t help too much. Awake – asleep – awake, all night!

Monday 22nd May
Up at 6am after 3-4 hours very broken sleep. Shower, bugger shaving, then outside where there was a nice breeze blowing – played bit of cricket with the children – had breakfast – played rounders with the children and lost 10=3. Visited 3 day centers for over 65’s – wow, are they old (look it anyway due to hard life), malnourished, etc. – require lots of assistance. Some were blind, some Alzheimer’s, most just very frail but they sang some songs and played musical instruments, whilst I (yes you guessed it), sat on a chair like a damn Buddha. Back to the center for lunch @ 1pm, then ‘rest time’ until 4pm. It is now 3.30 – Think going on a visit around the village this afternoon and meet other sponsored boy. Just had nice shower and feel a bit refreshed but for how long?? Visited a tribal village, oldest person was a man of 105 – blind, mostly deaf, very malnourished (skin & bones) and unable to walk, there was also a woman of 102, with all her faculties but recently had a fall and can’t walk but still gets around. The houses are so primitive you wouldn’t believe it – made of mud with thatched roofs, if it rains too much some of the houses just fall to pieces. About 20 small children sang some songs; danced and performed a couple of little plays – fabulous. Gave them some lollies, the adults too, until I ran out (you get heaps for A$2). Headed back to the center, stopped for a drink and I bought some chocolate, nut balls – quite nice. After late dinner, headed to bed, where slept on/off until about 2am, when I felt very sick and was violently ill followed by the dreaded diahorrea, sick again, shower, sick again, feel absolutely rotten, must have been the nut balls?

Tuesday 23rd May
Trip to MGM Dizzy World ended up with 59 people attending using 3 vehicles – children from Katchur and polio girls from the hostel, plus staff/helpers/drivers. The place was good but like most similar attractions, there are some free rides but others (the better ones) you have to pay. Steven had everyone lined up for 1 ride but I grabbed about a dozen boys/girls and headed to another ride. Naturally they wanted some pay rides and naturally I paid. It was very hot/humid (unusual) and I had a head and stomachache – what a day to pick? What a dickhead? After several hours, we all got back together for lunch (I didn’t eat). The meal including an egg seemed cheap to me @ A$80.00 the lot. We were meant to head to the beach later in the afternoon, some of the children had never seen the ocean (or Chennai either) but that didn’t eventuate – bugger, it would have been a place to cool off. The children all had a great time, which was the purpose of the exercise, the laughs and smiling faces, made it all very worthwhile. About 10 children stayed over at the house, as we were stuck in a traffic jam for over an hour – truck and car had a smash on one of the major bridges and blocked the road, it was stifling hot in the back of the car and the pollution was gross; most of the children fell asleep, one on my lap – other than feeling sick all day, it was really good fun.

Wednesday 24th May
Up at 6am, slept ok, feel much better, shave & shower then took children to shop for drink, toy car and dark glasses – all really cheap and won’t last long but still they were really happy to get them. The children headed off at 9.15. Took 3 films to be developed and stopped off at shop for chocolate cake and coke, quite nice – first to eat since Monday’s episode. Bumbled around a bit and went up to room for a rest, fell asleep for an hour and then showered again and went to collect photographs. Went to town in car with Steven’s wife to collect video from hotel and get some more Rs. She took me to a new, up market
7 story shopping plaza- quite nice – different class of people naturally. Also checked out local craft government shop – nice gear but very expensive (for the American tourist!), and a bookshop, then back to the house at Perambur for another shower. Off to Katchur around 6.30 and arrived at 8.40 (different driver [not too good] and slow, hairy trip). Stopped at a small town to get some toilet paper but as it is not a very used product in the country, ended up with serviettes (hmmm). Had some dinner at the center – fish, obligatory rice, some spicy gravy and mango for dessert. Sat outside talking to Steven for an about traditions and how they are changing due to TV/cable and therefore Western ways. Very interesting conversation. Tomorrow opening of new senior citizens meeting place and tour of village – I am opening it – bugger. Now 11.45pm so will hit the sack and continue on the morrow.

Thursday 25th May
Out of bed at 6am (beginning to be a habit!). Spoke with lady in charge who told me all children in the school, work very hard in all their studies/sport. When area school competitions are held, they always win – just shows if you give them a chance, they will take it and run with it. Parents are amazed how children have quitened down at home and do what they are told. They take pride in all they accomplish. School hours are 9am to 4pm with hour off for lunch (which is provided for them). The children assist with tasks in the kitchen and around the grounds, etc., as part of free schooling; this also instills teamwork and makes them take pride in what they have. There is no graffiti or any other vandalism around this place and I am sure that if anyone was found doing anything, the other children would take care of the person!! This place really gets to me, as it is tranquil; there is so much caring, nurturing, love and understanding of the needs of the younger generation. It is one large family, where they all assist each other – there is evidently no fighting between the children, only a few cross words. It is so heartbreaking that so little assistance is forthcoming from the ‘rich’, but I guess they are lucky that Share & Care is involved in their community and giving them at least an opportunity to learn. Most of the parents have no formal education. Steven was telling me about family size, etc. Sex education is a taboo in their society and never discussed, even in the home. A Boy/Girl relationship is not on until marriage time [some do meet in parks, etc. but that is also a no-no]. If the daughter/wife mess about, there is big trouble; they didn’t actually say what would happen to the male? Some gypsy families have up 10-15 children – as the children get older some get sold to factories for Rs5-10, 000 or run away from home as too many mouths to feed. Two of the young boys are playing with their 15c cars, and having a great time, as I write this, what a joy to see {reminds me of the pre-TV days??}. Headed off to the opening of the ‘oldies’ center at 11am – it is only a thatch shelter at the moment but eventually concrete building similar to the others. This is the 6th such center – will also be used at night by children for studying. Garland placed around my neck to applause (embarrassing) and lit candles, then another ceremony where a well is to be dug. Oldies sang some songs and played the instruments. They had lunch and I then handed out some lollies, we left about 2pm. Back to the centre for lunch and then they had their ‘sleep’, I didn’t just walked around a bit. Steven decided would not leave until tomorrow morning, as I wanted to get some photos at the tribal village we visited the other day, when my camera batteries went flat, I was very happy with this decision. Took some good pictures at the village, I hope, then back to base about 7.30pm. Principal informed me that all the children take every opportunity they are given and strive to the best of their ability in all their endeavors, whether it is scholastic or sporting. They also have very minimal trouble from the children – i.e. disciplinary. The teachers get paid a pittance by our standards but usually turn up to teach, which is unusual in Asia – they usually either ask the students for extra money or don’t turn up all the time. I asked her what they required at the school – it might have been easier to ask what they don’t want! There was no electricity until about 9, no breeze, just hot and humid – this part I will not miss. A few of the children and I went to the ‘shop’ for a drink and I bought them all some soap – you would think I would have given them something of great value from the appreciation they showed. When the power came back on, some of the children did some dancing and singing; I took some video - it was really good. Leaving tomorrow morning at 6am, heading back to Perambur – rather early start methinks!

Friday 26th May
Woke at 4am and decided to get up, as if back to sleep may be late. Even at this time it was, you guessed it – hot and humid without a breeze. Had coffee at 5.30 and then said my goodbyes to the children and staff at 6.15 – I was very sad to be leaving this place. It was so serene in all ways and the children were great – no fights, no arguments – I realize they are probably on their best behavior while Steven is here but have a feeling that they are like it all the time – just like Aussie children?? Arrived back at Perambur at 8am and had coke for breakfast. One of the boys, Alex (who I now sponsor) is staying at the house for a few days holiday, so took him shopping for new shirt/trousers/T shirt, also bought a couple each for Eswarayha and Joseph (gave some money to Steven to buy some for Mahendran as didn’t know his size). It was a good exercise for Alex, as Steven told me he never asks for anything and doesn’t make decisions, so I made him choose the clothes he wanted and he did it no problems – think maybe he gets a bit intimidated with Steven? Actually when we departed Katchur, it was only that I reminded Steven that Alex was meant to be coming that he did, Alex had said nothing, Steven stated that is normal for him!. The staff had been searching for Mahendran and finally located he and his mother at house of an uncle but it was too late for a meeting – it doesn’t really matter; Steven said he is a really nice boy and works really hard at school – he lives at the orphanage during school time. After a lunch of cake and ice cream, I attended the polio clinic downstairs, the doctor is an ‘old dude’ but really nice and kind to the patients – he runs the clinic 1 afternoon per week for Share and Care. It was really heartbreaking to see these children from as young as 2 through to young adults with this dreaded disease. Some of them are so debilitated that there is not much that can be done, others it means operations and hospitalization for long periods, then calipers, physiotherapy, etc. Any costs involved are borne by Share and Care. There was also a little boy (about 5) with cerebral palsy but he was referred to a hospital for assistance – reminded me of the children in Cambodia. It is so depressing but at least they are receiving some assistance. There was another boy about 10, who had the operation but as his parents had not followed up, was going to go through it all again – he broke his little heart. A couple of times thought I would ‘lose it’ but the tears held off. I forgot, that in the morning a mother came in with a girl [6?] and a boy [4?], her husband had left her and she can’t support the children, so is giving them up to Share and Care – where does it all end!?!?!?

Sponsored Children.
Alex – 12 years old – was dumped with Steven and his wife when he was a tiny baby, he was very malnourished and very small – they paid for him to be nursed by some people – at one stage early in life, he acquired dysentery and wasn’t expected to live, Steven’s wife told them not to tell her anything more as she was too upset – about a month or so later, she received a call from the ‘minders’, asking where the powdered milk was, by some miracle he had survived. He is very small in stature and would be the height of a normal 8-year-old Aussie. He is evidently very smart and is always 1st in his class and excellent at mathematics, English is passable. He is very quiet and likeable; maybe a little ‘stand offish’ due to the appalling start to his life?

Eswarayha - 9 years old, small for his age as usual – has a mother but lives at the orphanage. Bit quiet and subdued to start with but by the end of the trip, if anyone asked my name, he would proudly say ‘John Manning’ – nice little boy. Actually likes plenty of attention but who wouldn’t in his situation?

Joseph – 6 years old – ‘baby’ of the orphanage – cute as a button and cheeky – favorite of the staff and gets extra stuff (bit unfair on the others!) but is a real wag and will get on in life.

Anyway, time arrived for the final meal and it was very nice. Steven presented me with a lovely gift (engraved vase) and had me place my name and comments in the visitor’s book – they get most support from Sweden. Gave him some Rs to buy a few things for the other children that I don’t sponsor; also bought some red/blue biros and rulers for the children living at the orphanage at Katchur. – Steven has been saying to me that I am very generous and my standard reply is “money is to be spent” and I can’t think of a better cause. I don’t really think it is generosity but a mixture of ‘guilt’ and support.
Off to the airport, farewells, handshakes and away we go. Another late nigh flight was uneventful, fell asleep a couple of times.

Chennai is very different to Calcutta – it is much cleaner, less pollution, less traffic congestion, saw nobody sleeping on the streets, no beggars, more ‘Western’ style places to eat, has a beach, no visitor/local prices – in other words, in my opinion superior.

I can’t wait to return, probably Christmas next year, to see how the children have grown and progressed and what has happened in the preceding 18 months.


Saturday 27th May
Arrived at the airport on time, thru customs/immigration then bus to the hotel, arriving at 6.30am – shower/shave and down for a ‘real’ breakfast of bacon, egg, orange juice, etc. Decided to head into the city but a taxi costs 70 ringit (A$30) – screw that – ended up getting a taxi to the commuter train then to the city – return journey cost A$14. Walked around the town, purchased some audio/video/computer game CD’s that cost between $3-7.00, then back to the hotel at 4.30. Fell asleep on the train bulk times – must be the rocking motion – bloody tired anyway – had dinner – very nice, including yummy dessert, then bus to the airport, onto the plane – it is now 1.30am Adelaide time.

THE END

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Send me your comments or questions. E-mail.me: joman@eisa.net.au