.
OK!

This is the first "real" servicing on the Tigger besides the usual oil change, filter, lube, fluids check, and tire & brake check. This calls for the dreaded valve clearance check!     ;~O      OH NO! Mr. Bill!!!!!

Thank god that I didn't buy some "desmo" design like the Ducati with their almost constant valve fiddling. The next time I have to do this valve check will be at 18,000 miles!

Me being the somewhat lazy sort, who does not enjoy producing extra work for himself, decided to do some mixture monkeying and carb modifications while the bike was opened up for the valve shim check.

I will give a quick run down of the valve shimming and a more detailed description of the modifications to the carbs.

Of course any modifications are done for bikes that run off road or on the track only due to EPA rules...... Yah, we follow them, right???
And baby fur seals are viscous creatures that attack until clubbed dead...  ;-)

Take the seat off and remove the battery, then take the gas tank off.

Remove the oil and oil filter while you are at it.  Don't refill it until you are done with everything else.

It is advisable but not necessary to take off the two side panels. I left them on this time, but would take them off next time due to they keep getting in the way.

Remove all the air inlet and routing crap on both sides of the frame.

Disconnect all hosing to the airbox proper and undo the clamps holding it to the carb bank. Pull the airbox as far to the rear as possible.

Next, undo the air lines going to the carb bank and mark for reinstall if you are forgetful like me.... (Where the Fuck did this one go again?????)

Now undo the clamps holding the carbs on and attempt to squeeze the carbs out from between the airbox and the cylinder head. Use a helper at this point to keep from doing much damage!   It is a pain in the ass!

Once you pry the unit out of there take the next ten or so minutes to swear and get mad while you attempt to remove the throttle end connection from the little arm in the carb bank. Use needle nose pliers and forceps.   It is a Bitch!

Now remove the airbox from the bike using the space vacated by the carb removal.   No prob now!

Carefully pull off the spark plug leads and remove the bolts from the top that hold the top cover on. Now remove the top cover - this is another pain in the ass, finally, overcome by a sharpened aluminum rod being driven up under the cover.

When the cover is removed try to take the whole gasket with it. It will be easier to reinstall later.

Now pull off the cover on the right lower side of the engine and expose the end of the accessory shaft and use this to turn the engine over with for moving the cams back and forth.

Move the cams to the proper position (see manual) and check the valve clearances on the exhaust side....

OK! All within tolerances!!!

Now do the intake side.....

Shit! Out of twelve, five are under the tolerance limit!

Use the Triumph tool and pry out the shims with a flattened, sharpened nail.

Pulled out the shims and two of them would switch into two others and be in tolerance! Yah! Get the other ones in there and you are done!

Remove and replace the spark plugs if you want to at this time.

I went with the platinum tipped plugs from NGK. The platinum plugs are NGK #DPR 8EVX-9 and the standard plugs were NGK #DPR 8EA-9. Each of the platinum plugs runs around $8.25US but is well worth it for longevity and spark gap stability.

Add some gasket sealer on the corners and reassemble the valve cover and retorque.

DONE!

Now to work on the carbs!!!